GTV First Loop: The Varner Years

Jeff here. Every year on our birthdays we cyclists have developed the tradition of a long ride. A week into the trip a solo ride was an option, but not as fun. Melissa hatched a plan to get Varner on a train to meet us for a couple days of riding. Varner, being an awesome friend and lover of bike adventure, graciously agreed. The weather, it turned out, was slightly less agreeable (cool and drizzly)…but the show must go on.

We picked up Varner at the train station in West Glacier, only to discover that Amtrak’s assurances that his bike situation was hunky dory were all total crap. Apparently, there’s no checked baggage in West Glacier—on or off. Oh, Amtrak.

After a quick “well this screws us” pityfest, we hatched a plan and chased down the train at its next stop in East Glacier (think Fast and Furious – Van vs. Train). Got the bike. Varner one, Amtrak zero. (Still, you suck Amtrak.)

Switching up riding plans, we suited up and took off from East Glacier on Rt. 49 north, with an opening spur trip to Two Medicine Lake. Melissa and Flynn leapfrogged us in the GTV support car, hooking up at the lakeside turnaround. Back out on Rt. 49 from Two Medicine up Looking Glass Hill, up 89 and over to Browning on Starr School Road then back to East Glacier on 2. Despite the almost constant rain, the 60 mile route was pretty amazing and the views popped out just when we needed them to.

While V and I rode, Mel took advantage of a unique Glacier Park perk. She trail ran four miles to the other side of the lake (sorry Flynn, no dogs allowed on park trails :() and then took a ferry boat back.

After regrouping, showers were had followed by an extremely large Mexican birthday dinner at Serranos. Slightly inebriated we descended on the East Glacier lodge to visit the 70’s era lounge and wander the halls before retiring for the night.

The next morning we headed north in similarly dubious weather. Varner and I nevertheless saddled up in St Mary for a West-East traverse of the Going to the Sun Road. Quickly we got soaked through and stopped at the first sign that said “breakfast,” but it was not to be as they had stopped serving. It was serendipity though, as the skies cleared a bit during our stop and (with a bit of prodding, needling and ribbing from Mel) we decided to push on towards the pass. Up up up with the clouds just high enough to provide amazing views above and into the valley. 

Of course, the weather slowly worsened until we were in a full rain storm. 

A quick stop at the van (note: support vans are awesome – thanks Mel!) before we topped out on Logan pass. Descending the sketchy road in sketchy weather seemed like a bad idea, so we called it a day and drove down together.

With a little extra time we explored the park stopping at a few scenic pullouts and a short hike on the Trail of the Cedars before heading back to Lake Five for showers and hot dogs over the fire. Eventually it was time to bring Varner to the train station in Whitefish (cool town) and have a beer at the local watering hole.

All in all, not exactly the plan but we made it work and had a blast. Thanks Varner! 

Driving back to camp the rains came heavy, the skies emptying to get ready for a week of beautiful weather.

Days’ lesson:  Climbing big mountain passes in the rain is pro.